Text and Photos by Annemarie Eveland

In 1885, “Mountain of the Wild Turkey” is what the Spanish heard this place was called in Opeta (the language of the Uto-Aztecan). And wild turkeys roamed free, filling the mountains. Some medicine men of the Apache called it “…woman with a most romantic history.” I heard that some Chiricahua Apache call the tall spires “standing up rocks.” 

As I gazed out at the spellbinding and scenic panoramic view of these unusual formations, I too felt it was beautiful beyond words, and strange with a magical yet haunting feeling. These wild Chiricahua Mountains, in southeastern Arizona, are a large mountainous range that is part of the Coronado National Forest. Its statue rises impressively to 9,763 feet. The formations in these mountains have been called hoodoos, or fairy chimneys. But they are tall, thin rock spires created by many years of erosion. The entire area is a wonderland of rocks that will mesmerize your eyes and spark your imagination. They established the Chiricahua National Monument in 1924 to preserve and protect the pinnacles and thus preserve this living geological wonderland. The park is over 12,025 acres, mostly designated as wilderness. 

Historically speaking, the Clovis archeological sites are the earliest evidence of human habitation there. After them, the Cochise culture inhabited the area from 3000 to 200 BCE, both without ceramics. Afterward, the pottery found was Mogollon and Nombre from about 150 BCE to 1450 CE. Then the Chiricahua Apache came and occupied the area until their overthrow in the late 19th century. They had called it “home” since the 1940s. Traditionally, they were nomads, eating plants and hunting large animals. People feared and respected this Apache tribe because they were superb fighting warriors. They resisted and fought against any takeover. However, Geronimo and Cochise could not hold back the flood of white men taking over their land. And sadly, they were forcibly placed on reservations in New Mexico and Oklahoma. 

In 1881, someone filed a mining claim called the Hidden Treasure, and mining has happened there intermittently throughout the years. The Chiricahua were skilled scouts, skills used even today by drug cartels for lookouts from their peaks for the Border Patrol. 

Geologically speaking, these mountains are an uplifted structural block containing Precambrian, Paleozoic, and Cretaceous sedimentary rocks around a caldera formed by volcanic eruptions some 35+ million years ago. The last eruption (27 million years ago) created 2,000 feet of silica-rich volcanic ash, called rhyolite. Rhyolite tuff is used in construction. Obsidian (rhyolite volcanic glass) has been used from the earliest times to create sharp edges. The German geologist Ferdinand von Richthofen created it in 1860, and it comes from the Greek word rhyax (stream of lava) and the rock name suffix “lite”. Rhyolite is simply super-heated ash particles that melted together to form layers of gray rock. This process is still happening today. 

I found it fascinating how these ancient rock formations have stood the test of time, and let the elements create of them what they wished. At the base of these mountains, the elevation is 3,000 feet and then it rises to approximately 6,000 feet, which makes it a shiver-inducing night to sleep but sunny and warm in the daytime. 

There are many species presently inhabiting the Chiricahua Mountains. As a matter of interest, I learned that they have recorded over 375 bird species. There are other animals too: ocelots, mountain lions, jaguars, black bears, and the white-tailed deer. I learned too that there are reclusive coatimundis and many reptile species. I am glad that we did not meet up with these roaming animals during our Southern Arizona trek. 

Our group reserved sites in Bonita Campground. Native trees nestle among each site, offering reasonable privacy. It comes with a BBQ stand, a nearby water spigot, and easy access to restrooms (no showers). You are dry camping mostly, as there are no hookups for water, electricity, or sewer at each campsite, but the price was reasonable and the park entrance fee is free.

We took the Bonita Canyon drive, which leads to Massai Point. The overlook offers a complete view of Rhyolite Canyon, the nearby valleys, and the stunning mountain peaks. Besides the designated roads, rangers allow only foot traffic hiking some 17 miles or horseback in most of this park area. You will meander through forests, rock formations, and meadows. 

This park maintains vigilance in protecting the environment, keeping visitors safe, and supplying information to help visitors appreciate what is in the park. There are several great hiking trails in this special park. The one we took was Echo Canyon Grottoes, starting at the Echo Canyon Trailhead. The surprising vistas are a treasure, and the trails are easy to manage. We met some horse riders along the way, too, who shared the trail. 

Choosing this area for our two-night camp-out pleased me. It was too windy to have a campfire the first night. But they allowed us a campfire the second night — we brought a portable firepit and, of course, our own firewood, and told our stories -into the night.

If you choose to go, it’s best to make your reservations ahead of your arrival. Take fun food, drinks, and a fat parcel of good stories to share with your fellow campers. Happy Trails!

For more detailed information and updates, contact Chiricahua National Monument: www.nps.gov/chir 

Call 520-8243-3560 for more information.