PHOTOS AND ARTICLE BY SHERRY E ENGLER

Consecrated, sacred, and revered flood my emotions as I stand outside one of the cavates of the Mindeleff Cavate Lodge Group hand built by the indigenous ancients many, many years ago. A spirit, perhaps lingering from one of the prehistoric natives, seems to pervade my senses, deterring me from entering the cavate. I resolutely decide to explore the cavates, looking in from the exterior of the cliff, instead of prodding inside each individual structure, not only to preserve what is left today; but, also, to respect the remains of the lifestyle of people who resided in the interior hundreds of years ago.

Don and I love exploring, especially in Arizona. However, both of us felt overcome by the sacredness of these ancient hand-carved caves not to intrude. And even though we observed other prints of modern shoes left on the sand floors, we decided not to enter the cavates, but to explore and enjoy looking in from the rugged trail to respect the remnants of life once lived by the Sinagua culture, perhaps descendants from Mogollon culture predecessors.  

According to arizonaruins.com, in 1891, a young explorer and his wife, Cosmos and Marion Mindeleff, explored and surveyed the ancient site. They documented their findings which were published by the U.S. Bureau of Ethnology in 1896. Cosmos and Marion reported a total of 89 dwellings and 343 rooms existing at the site. Thus, the dwellings and the site became known for the first explorers documenting their findings, the Mindeleffs. Sadly, since the documentation, many have ravaged the artifacts leaving the cavern residences of the Sinagua group desolated and empty. 

The Mindeleff Cavates are an absolute wonder, located approximately ten miles south of Camp Verde, Arizona, high atop, carved in a canyon wall on the east banks of the Verde River. Apparently, there are two ways to reach the site. One way is to travel on Salt Mine Road a few miles to Beasley Flat River Access; however, Don and I accessed the site by hiking the remote McDonald trail.

Ahh! The McDonald Trail. First, Don and I are so excited about finding the Mindeleff Cavates. Where are they? We have lived an hour away from them for over forty years and never heard of them. What? I start researching. They are located on Highway 260, south of Camp Verde. What?! We have traveled to Camp Verde, literally for decades, passing by them many, many NUMEROUS times, and never once observed the cavates on the side of the canyon. 

So, I put the location and designated destination in my phone for directions. When we reach the Dollar Store, my phone clearly states, “You have reached your destination.” So, I have Don put the location and designated destination in his phone. We backtrack in a circle, arrive at the Dollar Store again and his phone clearly states, “You have reached your destination!” At this point and time, my competitive spirit takes over my self-control, and I find myself shouting to the phone, “No, we have NOT reached our destination! We are at the Dollar Store!”

Thankfully, Don observed a pull-out earlier about a half mile slightly northwest, across the street from the dollar store. Construction trucks are busy in this area, but we park in the dirt pull out, and observe a wooden sign, aged in time, which reads, “Welcome to McDonald Trailhead, Generously Donated by the CA McDonald Family.” As we inspect the sandy dirt trail, winding through the rugged, desert terrain, we venture forth in hopes the trail will traverse over the desert valley, stretching directly skyward to the destination of the Mindeleff Cavates.

The day is May 16, 2023. The time is roughly noon, and the temperature reads 93 degrees. Don and I observe a storm brewing in the northeast, thunderheads weighted in heavy blue and gray. Because the bright rays from the overheated sun beat directly upon us, we check our water supply for the hike. And so, we begin the arduous trek across the heated desert floor, directly climbing in elevation on the sparsely kept trail to reach our goal of peeking into a native world dating back to possibly 1100 CE or earlier.

The arduous trek is one of the reasons these human-made caves have been preserved as well as they have been over time. Trust me, it is truly a test of determination to make the climb. I confide in Don my true belief is we have risen in elevation at least one thousand feet. He chuckles and states he thinks it is more like 750. Although the trail is probably a little farther than a mile in length, it is quite a physical endeavor, not for the faint of heart. Dedication and determination are a must for the hiker; but, the gratification of the view and the feeling of a true connection with the past is worth the pain.

Peering into the cavates generates the imagination with visions of what life was like during the era of the active Sinagua civilization living here. Estimations from archaeologists range to approximately 250 natives inhabiting them at one time. Inspecting the ceilings of some of the sandstone caves, they are black, the resulting effects of fires built hundreds of years ago. And I close my eyes to listen to what sounds like faint drums; my imagination taunts me with imagining daily life among the natives. 

Why build here? Smart! Very smart! Clear Creek and the Verde River provided water year-round, which natives knew was the claim to existence. Being high inside the sandstone cliffs protected them in various ways. One essential way was the view of impending dangers traversing up the canyon.  

Standing on the edge, high on the cliff, looking over the valley lying many feet below, my immediate thought is, “Wow! Who did they send to fetch the water?” 

As we stare into the desert valley floor, a gracious hawk circles overhead, perhaps a descendant of ancestors who once inhabited the sky with these strong, industrious indigenous natives.  

Shards of pottery are scattered throughout the site and on the trail. As always, please protect and preserve these ancestral lands by respecting the heritage: do not remove or damage any artifacts or structures. The life of these ancient people deserves respect for their tribulations of yesterday; the life of fortitude for future generations to admire, experience, and explore.

And if you reach the Dollar Store, and your phone declares, “You have reached your destination!” Relax; go in the dollar store; buy a soda and some candy bars. It’s a big climb! From our family to yours, safe hiking, and happy exploring!