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STORIES IN STONE...

 “Git a rope!” That’s what my old crusty Cowboy-friend Bob said to me when I complained about my bed mattress being so hard. Bob was truly an elder Cowboy-friend who, at the age of 92, still had line shacks, rode his horse Silver Bullet and, I suspected, wore his gun and boots to bed. 
 

 I looked at him quizzically as he continued, “Yer don’t need ta’ be fussin’ and fumin’ over a sleepless night. In my day, the bunkhouse was equipped with bunks that could be adjusted right ta’ ya’ needs. Ya’ curious yet, lassie?”
 

 I could see an amused smile flash across his face. I swallowed my pride to let my curious nature listen and nodded enthusiastically.
 

 He told me how -- in his ranching days -- they would drill holes in the sides of the wooden bed frame and run rope through them as they wove the “mattress” out of crisscross roping and knots. So, if you wanted a soft mattress, you would leave it loose; if you liked a firm mattress, just add wood wedges in the loops on the outside of the frame and it would tighten up and be a firm mattress. 
 

 Ingenious idea, I thought. I hadn’t seen this creativity but did see it when I visited the Rock Art Ranch in Arizona, a still working 5,000-acre cattle ranch, loosely situated between Holbrook and Winslow near Interstate 40. The bunkhouse there was originally built in the 1900s and holds original furnishings of the Hashknife Outfit. There I saw a rope bunkbed in the bunkhouse. So, Cowboy-friend Bob’s story to me must be true. 
 

 But Rock Art Ranch is more than an active working cattle ranch and rope beds. Owner Brantley Baird has lived on the ranch since 1948. Originally, his ranch was owned by the Aztec Land and Cattle Company, commonly referred to as the Hashknife Outfit. Even today, the Hashknife Pony Express is re-enacted annually and runs from Holbrook to Scottsdale delivering the special mail by horseback relay.
 

 Over the years of Baird’s ownership, he has shared with the public his growing cowboy/pioneer collection, along with the Anasazi artifacts found on his ranch which are displayed in his Museum. One surprising photo there is of an elderly Navajo woman, Irene Eskey, who is 115 years old and still standing just fine. 
 

 Baird says he feels it important to share with people the rich history of his ranch and wants to keep it up as a living history of the Old West. He even brought in buffalo to roam his range, a significant reminder of the Old West. 
 

 In addition to these best-preserved collections of pioneer and Native American artifacts on display in the Museum, there is one stunning natural collection of ancient petroglyphs found along the spectacular Chevelon Canyon on the ranch. The petroglyphs in this canyon are incised through the black patina on the sandstone walls revealing a large display of well-preserved, ancient petroglyphs. There are grand carvings into the rocks of symbols (yet to be deciphered), people and animals. 
 

 Rock Art Ranch has hosted academic archeologists who assist in the excavation and interpretation of the artifacts. Some excavated features include Anasazi dwellings, a Navajo Hogan, a Sweat Lodge and the ancient petroglyphs found along the two-mile canyon walls. The ranch regularly has visitors from other museums and universities. The University of Arizona Anthropology Department hosts an ongoing field school for five weeks to study and excavate on the property. 
 

 This area is still deemed a sacred site and over 3,000 petroglyphs -- dating from approximately 5,000 BC to 1,400 AD -- have been documented at the Ranch. The Chevelon Canyon and the areas surrounding it have been used by hunting and gathering groups, nomadic farmers and, later, the ancient peoples who settled there. 
 

 Chevelon Canyon is a narrow, steep-walled gorge carved by a year-round gurgling stream. Access to the canyon is easy at the ranch as there is a naturally-formed break in the wall. You walk down the nature-made steps with helpful, man-made handrailing and platforms to steady yourself. 
 

 Cautiously climb down into the heart of the rock-art displays. In the lush canyon bottom, it is easy to follow the sandy-like beach paths meandering through willow and mesquite trees with two small foot bridges to assist crossing low stream. Upon reaching the creek, continue walking to see one of the most dramatic images, believed to be a fertility symbol. Archaeologists dubbed it the “birthing panel.”
 

 Owner Baird encourages visitors to go down on their own through the canyon and take as long as they like to experience it for themselves.
 

 “Don’t worry, we haven’t lost too danged many,” he says with a kind smile. And he encourages visitors about the petroglyphs by saying, “Whatever you think they are, that’s what they are.’ Archaeologists don’t know what these symbols mean. They’re trying to figure it out, same as us.”
 

 Chevelon Canyon offers visitors a lot of serenity. It is like an oasis in the desert, truly. Surrounded by the harsh desert landscape up top, in a few minutes, your descent into the canyon will reward you with quietude and a feeling of peace in lush greenery. I truly felt I walked upon sacred ground and looked eagerly at all the stories told in its stone walls. I tried to gather the memories from the other people who lived here long ago and loved this canyon. This canyon has outlived them and will likely outlive me too. I felt a desire to sit and listen to the music told by the gurgling stream, feel the warmth of the sun seeping into my body and try and imagine what the people who are gone now must have felt living here before I came -- with my questions and my imagination. That canyon walk is a treasured memory for me. 
 

 As the late afternoon sun was fading, I climbed back up the steps hand over hand holding onto the railing. Up top, on the canyon rim, a covered observation deck was built with sturdy long tables. My friend had mentioned that I should bring a sack lunch as they don’t do food delivery here! Luckily, there was also a nearby restroom. I carefully took my left-over lunch trash with me to respect the land. 
 

 Call 928-386-5047 or 928-288-3260. Baird may answer your call himself. Tours are by reservation only -- with directions to find the ranch. Admission is $35 per person for tours but meeting Brantley is a is real treat and you can spend an entire leisurely day at this ranch. Bring your sack lunch and sunscreen. 
 

 But best of all, pack your curiosity and your genuine care and respect for the land, its ancient people and their stories etched on the stones. 
 

 Oh, yes, on your fun day outing, be sure to verify for yourself the versatile rope bed in the bunkhouse! Happy trails.

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