Text and Photos 

By Annemarie Eveland

“White Dove of the Desert” is a historic Spanish Catholic mission named San Xavier del Bac Mission. It continues today as the only functioning parish church for the native people of the first nation. “Bac” in Tohono O’odham means – “a place where water appears” as the mission is located near natural springs and the Santa Cruz River. The indigenous people who lived there were called the “Papago” – which means Bean Eaters, but their name was changed to fit them more respectfully. 

Mission San Xavier del Bac is located on the Tohono O’odham Nation reservation about 10 miles south of Tucson. To this day, it is the finest example of Spanish Colonial architecture that still exists in the United States. Its building is one of the most culturally significant buildings worldwide. As a National Historic Landmark, it was among the first sites to be classified. 

From early on in its history, it was referred to as “the White Dove of the Desert.” Its pure white finish contrasts with the wide expanse of brown desert and Arizona blue skies. The mission was founded by Padre Eusebio Kino, a Jesuit Padre, who started the mission for the River O’odham who lived along the banks of the Santa Cruz River. The mission was named for Francis Xavier, a Christian missionary who founded the Jesuit Order in Europe. 

During the long reign of Spain over this area, which was called New Spain, Charles III of Spain distrusted the Jesuits, so in 1767 he banned them from all Spanish lands in America and replaced them with the more “reliable and pliable” Franciscans, who were forced to leave as well, for Spain in 1837. 

Unfortunately, the Mission decayed until 1853 when it became part of the United States through the Gadsden Purchase. The church reopened in 1859 and Santa Fe Diocese added it to their jurisdiction. Then in 1868 the Diocese of Tucson was created, and San Xavier began having regular services again. 

A school was opened in 1872 by the sisters of Carondelet for the children. And Franciscans returned in 1913. Since 1872 the Franciscan Sisters of Christian Charity have taught school there. 

Built in the classic cruciform (shaped like a cross), the mission was built between 1783 to 1797 and is a pristine example of Spanish Colonial architecture surviving in the United States — it is the oldest European structure in Arizona.  

Four different nations have flown their flags over this land, beginning with New Spain until 1821, when Mexico won its independence. However, in 1854 the Gadsden Purchase brought the church and land into possession of the United States. And since 1937, the Tohono O’odham Nation has flown their own flag over the Mission.

I sat down to talk with Friar Ponchie Vasquez of the Franciscan order, currently pastor and guardian of the mission, to appreciate how things are “today” in this iconic mission. He cares for the people and, in his words, “the work of the mission of the church, its purpose, is to help people in their sacrament of life 

— it is a living community.”

The School teaches children through the eighth grade. Unfortunately, the school was closed in 2022, but will be open again in August of 2024. In the small classrooms, teachers focus on academic excellence, culture, and student excellence. 

Friar Ponchie said that the “Patronato” of this church are patron-volunteers formed to raise funds for the preservation and restoration work at the mission. They have raised well over fifteen million dollars for restoration of this historic mission. 

The mission structure was built of clay brick, lime mortar and stone. Many of the original pigments (iron-oxide red, ochre yellow, manganese black and white lime wash) are still clinging to the mission’s façade. Most of the statues, frescoes, paintings and carvings that still reside in the mission are originals from the 1750s.

The mission fell into total disrepair and was abandoned from 1837 to 1859. Then Santa Fe Diocese started fixing up the mission. However, history shows it has endured much. It suffered earthquake damage in 1887 within the mortuary wall and church areas. Then there was lightning damage, but because the mission survived a lightning strike in 1939, they used fiberglass reinforcing rods for the legs of the tower, avoiding metal to resist future lightning damage. Then on August 27, 1964, a severe tornado went through the area and although much around the mission was destroyed, the church itself was miraculously spared. There are two towers. One is still unfinished, and has been in disrepair and has needed extensive restoration for a very long time. 

When conservation teams began their work, even the brushstrokes and colors, which had been exposed for over 200+ years under severe weather elements and other harsh conditions, still remained intact. In 1940 to 1950 conservation efforts coated much of the mission with concrete plaster made 

from Portland cement. After it dried, the concrete plaster was then repainted in bright colors, differing from the original paints. It was discovered later that this actually damaged the walls and inside areas because concrete retains moisture and it disintegrated the original materials. 

  On a hill near the mission is Grotto Hill. It is a quarter of a mile walk from the mission. When you reach the top, it gives you an impressive overview of the mission and the surrounding mountain ranges of Tucson, Catalina, Rincon, and Mount Wrightson peak.

Inside the church is displayed many original statues and murals. A visitor could easily spend a day at this mission to understand it all. 

In the west chapel, there is a glass case with a statue of crucified Christ, originally at the Tumacacori Mission, but when the Apaches were leading raids on them, they moved it to the San Xavier Mission and brought their saints with them. By 1890’s it was referred to as the “entombed Christ.”

The Mission does have docent tours. You can visit the website: www.sanxaviermission.org or call 520-294-2624 for Church hours and Mass schedules. South of Tucson, take I-10, exit I-19, which brings you directly to Mission Road to the Xavier Mission. 

(1950 W. San Xavier Rd.)

This mission is intriguing, awesome, powerfully historic and humbling. A visitor can easily feel the sacredness when entering the mission. I was there with a lot of other visitors, and yet the atmosphere was peaceful and sacred with reverent silence as people wandered around visiting and praying. With hopes that you can experience this White Dove of the Desert sometime, have safe and sacred travels.