SOUTHFORK TRAIL #97

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A VIEW FROM THE TRAIL

Years ago, I rescued a young lab mix puppy from the Show Low Animal Shelter and the first trail I took her on was the South Fork Trail. That was before the Wallow Fire (in the year 2011) pillaged most of its greenery and turned its once majestic pines into toothpicks. My pup, Xena, one of my all-time favorite trail dogs, had long been gone and the South Fork Trail, one of my favorite trails, was forever changed. I tried hiking it one spring after the fire but the shock of the devastation the fire did was too much and I turned around and went home. I hiked it again with the TRACKS hiking group this past month and, despite the devastation that the fire bestowed upon this area, it is recovering nicely.

One of the changes I noticed right away was that the campground did not exist anymore. That area has been developed into a day use area and overnight camping is no longer allowed. So strange to have it gone – I still remember that camp host – he built log-cabin-style bird houses. I also remember the many bear warnings that came with having a campground so close to a trail. So, instead of driving through to the other side of the campground where the trailhead was once located, we just followed CR 4124 to the right and parked in the parking lot by the kiosk. Now there are only fire rings, grills and picnic tables.

The lower South Fork Trail parallels the Little Colorado River for a large portion of the hike. The first part of the trail looks like I remembered it. It’s not until you reach about mid-point that you start to see the remnants of the fire. Where the trail lacks tall pines, Mother Nature has replaced them with young aspen and low shrubs and beautiful wildflowers. The dead trees still hover over the trail but the colorful flowers and discovery of wild raspberries are a great diversion. But beware the poison ivy. It is wise to wear long pants and closed-toed shoes.

When I hiked this trail years ago, we would turn by the sign that points to the Mexican Hay Lake and we would have to cross the river and climb up a steep bank to the upper level of the trail (the trailhead is on the north side of the lake). We passed that turn-off this time and kept hiking along the river instead. I can’t tell you how the trail is now on the way to the lake but I do know that, for years, Mexican Hay Lake was all dried up. This year, however, I drove past it on AZ Route 261 and it had water in it. Adding that leg of the trail will increase the distance of the hike and I would recommend parking a car at Mexican Hay, too -- if you intend to include it.

We hiked about three miles along the river and then back to the trailhead for a total of six miles.

On our way back, the weather turned on us and we were rained on and hailed on. Mountain weather can change at a moment’s notice and what started out as a pretty warm hike turned into a cold and wet excursion. Take some weather gear along with you. It can be pretty miserable to hike in cold rain — and always take plenty of water and snacks.

One of the highlights of hiking the South Fork Trail -- if you have some extra time -- is to stop by The Little House Museum at the X-Diamond Ranch which is located just off of FR 560. It has so much historical information about the Little Colorado Plateau and its settlers as well as a music hall with player pianos and antique artifacts — including a buggy used in a John Wayne western. You do have to make reservations ahead of time by calling Wink Crigler at 928-333-2286.

Directions: From Pinetop-Lakeside, follow AZ Route 260 toward Eagar until you get to CR 4124 (there is a sign for the X-Diamond Ranch). Turn right and follow this road for about 2.4 miles until you reach the South Fork Day Use Area and follow the signs to the trailhead. The trailhead at Mexican Hay Lake is located on AZ Route 261 at Milepost 405.2.

(AZ Route 261 is located further up the road toward Eagar on AZ Route 260 - right turn only)

Elevation ranges from 7,500 feet to 9,000 feet.

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