It’s about a two-hour and forty-five-minute drive from Pinetop —driving south on AZ Highway 260 to Springerville, continuing on AZ Highway 191 to Alpine and then left onto Highway 180 toward New Mexico. The drive is one of my favorites — long, single-lane, but incredibly scenic highways. 

Once we crossed into New Mexico, I was reminded of why they call it the land of enchantment. Mountain ranges as far as I could see with plenty of overlooks to stop and stare at some of the most beautiful mountain ranges. Not only are they beautiful, but there are stories and legends behind every peak and canyon.

Ancient cottonwoods greeted us at the entrance to the Catwalk Trail and the babbling sounds of flowing water set the tone for our one-mile hike along, and above, Whitewater Creek. The Catwalk is a bridge system of trails made of metal walkways fastened to towering rock walls of Whitewater Canyon — some hovering about 20 feet above the floor. Whitewater Creek was central to multiple mines above the Canyon, but was home to the small mining and mill town of Graham (also known as Whitewater) built by and named after John T. Graham in 1893. Although many mines used the mill, it only survived for 10 years.

To provide water to the small population of 200 in Graham and their generator for electricity, a four-inch pipeline was built in 1893 along the Creek, which followed the west side of the canyon. Eventually a larger 18-inch pipeline was needed to provide more water to the generator and was constructed parallel to the 4-inch pipe. Brace holes were dug into the sides of the solid rock canyon walls to hold the lumber and iron bars.The larger 18-inch pipes required constant maintenance and workmen had to “walk the line” to repair the damage — they dubbed it “The Catwalk.”

Many of the mines above the canyon were inspired by James C.Cooney; a soldier who discovered gold and silver while on a scouting mission for the Army. After his discharge in 1875, he organized a party to prospect the region. Included in the party was John Lambert who discovered gold and silver just above Whitewater Canyon.

The mines Lambert developed included Confidence, Bluebird, Blackbird and Redbird, which fed the mill at Graham. Cooney worked his claim from 1876 until he was killed in 1880 by Victorio — the great warrior and chief of the Chihenne band of the Chiricahua Apaches. The Apaches, doing anything necessary to protect their homeland, fought incoming pioneers after the Gadsen Purchase at the end of the Mexican war in 1853. Later, an influx of settlers, fueled by the discovery of gold and silver, descended on their land. After Cooney’s death, his brother and friends carved a tomb out of a huge boulder and sealed it with ore from the mine. Cooney’s tomb is still there and can be seen on Mineral Creek, north of Whitewater Canyon.

All that remains of the small town of Graham are several huge wooden beams and part of the mill walls clinging to the west side of the canyon near the entrance to the Catwalk. Other mines used Whitewater Creek until 1942; when the government forced a shutdown on mining non-essential metals that didn’t benefit the war effort — a war effort that needed equipment and manpower. Gold and silver lost their value and many miners joined the military.

The hike along the Catwalk follows the flow of Whitewater Creek and is a peaceful retreat into a dense riparian paradise. The giant cottonwoods’ contorted and crooked boughs and enormous trunks shadow the burbling water that flows over boulders, fallen logs, and river rocks. Several small waterfalls dot its journey into the pristine Gila Wilderness. 

The day we hiked the trail, a portion of the Catwalk was blocked because of the monsoon-like rainfall that had washed away some of the wall-face. We had to cross the creek to continue on the gravel trail until it ascended up to a towering rock ridge and into the wilderness. At this point, we turned around and hiked back to the Trailhead.

NOTE: The U.S. Forest Service strongly suggests that you check in with them for information before venturing into the Gila Wilderness.