By Annemarie Eveland
Photos by author Annemarie

For thousands of years on this southern Arizona land, the Tohono O'odham native peoples lived as the first inhabitants. Then, when the Spanish Conquistador explorers came (searching for a direct route to the Pacific Ocean), they called them “Papago.” The word Papago was a term that meant “bean eater” in Castilian Spanish slang. These native traditionals rejected this historical name and prefer even today to be known as the “Desert People,” as they live in the desert regions of Arizona and Sonora, Mexico. 

They used a flash-flood farming method for growing crops instead of irrigation. They built their summer homes along rich plains, where they channeled summer rains onto fields they were cultivating. They were foragers of many local plants like the mesquite bean pods. The fruits of the saguaro and the cholla were also harvested and they hunted for javelina, rabbit, and deer.

Then when ore was discovered in the area, the mine workers came to harvest the rich copper. This created yet another group from the growing need to feed the hungry miners. Ranches became a mainstay, and the ranchers provided the much-needed meat. As ranching became a busy local industry, the cowboys filled the muscle for maintaining the cattle for the meat supply. Both mining and ranching were demanding work often beginning in the dark of day and ending the same way. In order to conserve resources, most everything was utilized for building, repairing, and reusing materials and tools. The cowboys adapted and blended the habits of the Mexicans, the Anglos, and the Native Traditionals. Many of their songs reflect this blending of cultures.   

When the mines opened, Ajo became a “company town.” There were the challenges of hot summers, scarce water, remote location, etc. to overcome. But the vast rich copper in the open pit mine made the town of Ajo boast a prolific production of the very sought-after copper. At this Ajo mine, they developed Arizona’s first large copper operation to utilize open pit methods.  

An interesting point about Ajo was that its town was designed with an intentional style in mind, different from many of the early mining towns- whose construction sprung up in a haphazard manner. Ajo’s original design had elegant public areas where all people congregated but at the same time, there was still enforced segregation of residents for living quarters.

So, what does the word “ajo” mean? Well, it does mean “garlic” in Spanish. However, there is much evidence that the early Spanish didn’t truly understand what the word was when the Tohono O’odham spoke “o’ohon” which means (red) “paint” since they got the red pigment from their local soil. So, they just called them “ajo.” Maybe we could tag this town with a nickname of “Red Garlic?”

In its heyday, the New Cornelia Mine in Ajo was the third-largest copper producer in the world. Its branch of Phelps Dodge supplied most of the services needed for the surrounding communities for over 70 years. And Ajo employed about 3000 workers, producing 40,000 tons of copper yearly. The pit is about 1½ miles in diameter, with an evaporating spring-fed lake at the bottom, colored green from the copper sulfite. 

Sadly, however, in 1985 the mines closed due to dropping copper prices, and also due to the many unfortunate disputes between labor and management. Residents began to move out, which diminished the size of the town in half, limited jobs, and cut the needed services for its residents.

Some years later, the remaining citizens of the town wanted to move forward in revitalizing their town. They formed The International Sonoran Desert Alliance (ISDA) in 1993 with the purpose to shore up the environment, culture, and economy. Today ISDA works cooperatively with diverse partnerships to celebrate art, culture, and conservation excellence.

Ajo is noteworthy for keeping the City Beautiful vision that was originated by John Greenway, the Ajo Cornelia Mine founder. He has been fondly referred to as the town's founder. John served with Theodore Roosevelt as a Rough Rider at the Battle of San Juan Hill. John's wife Isabella was also the first congresswoman from Arizona. Greenway created new mining methods and was keenly involved in creating a modern Ajo, designing with intention, a town that would bring in workers as well as investors with an environment for spiritual and physical health. 

So, in 1917 the town's master plan of symmetry and harmony was created in the image of a bird with open wings. The plaza, of course, brought people together and created feelings of pride among the local residents. Presently the Ajo historic town center is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  

As beautiful as the design was, it wasn't enjoyed equally. The Anglos got to choose from several architectural styles and locations for their homes. The “Mexican Townsite” was set up for the Mexican laborers and the unfortunate Native American miners had to find housing outside the center of town. But it was the “Plaza” which allowed permission for everyone to gather and relax, socialize, and enjoy celebrations.

Historically speaking, the original inhabitants, the Tohono O'odham people, lived on this land that stretched across Arizona and the northern part of Mexico. They lived on what was called the Sonoran Desert, adapting their lifestyle to the land for over 10,000 years. Still today there are several groups in Arizona, which include the “Sand People,” the “Desert People,” and the “River People” that these indigenous people have called home. A shared language and sacred traditions bind these people together, despite differences in customs, dialects, and federal designations.

These native people had contact with the colonists from Europe when the Spanish colonists came over in the 1500s, and consequently, the region became part of the Spanish empire for three centuries until Mexican Independence in 1821. Next, the United States, under the Gadsden Purchase (1853) south of the Gila River, divided the land of the O'odham homeland through a declaration of an international border. As more colonists flooded into the area, the O'odham people lost more of their land. I personally find this “eminent domain without compensation” attitude of allocating at-will land from people who lived there before us, sad and egregious. These Tohono O’odham people are well known for their excellent basket weavings which they used in daily living for storage of foods, etc.  

As time passed, the influences of many diverse people blended a variety of distinctive arts, cultures, and foods that can be seen in Ajo’s lifestyle of today.

Today, you can also see the historic remnants of the train depot tracks that used to loudly snake by the station. Now they are silent as a reminder of days long ago when it was a vitally active train depot after its construction in 1916. (photo#5 tracks).  This Ajo train station called the Tucson, Cornelia, and Gila Bend Railroad is now listed in the National Register of Historic Places by the Department of the interior.   

The church still stands as a reminder of the days of religious influence and holds historical artifacts open for viewing. The open pit mine is startling and vast. The Artists Alley is a charming rendition of the creative abilities that abound in this little town, working hard to revitalize itself. Historic sepia portraits remember historic figures of the past. Throughout the town, especially around the plaza center, one can enjoy historic shops, creative places, and the visitor's center hosts several informational pieces and guides for you to do a self-tour. Both native foods and traditional fares are served. The visitors’ center is staffed with helpful and cheerful people with ideas of what to do on your visit to Ajo. A visit to the train depot museum gives you information about its history. You can almost hear the train whistles approaching. 

I enjoyed the walk thru Ajo’s living history and the colorful addition of current-day art that tells the stories of this little town and its people that have endured much and hope to create a lot more. May your journey south be safe and rewarding.